Thierry Roger, 60, Chicago-based fashion designer, dies

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Thierry Roger was a Chicago-based fashion designer who specialized in marrying classic designs with his own modern creativity.

“As a designer, he was infinitely talented and was one of the best in Chicago,” said Chicago jewelry designer Ellie Thompson, a longtime collaborator.

Roger, 60, died of complications from colon cancer May 8 at his home, said Kim Vrooman, a longtime friend. He had been a resident of the Albany Park neighborhood.

 Chicago fashion designer Thierry Roger is surrounded by fabrics. Roger specialized in custom-designed women's clothing.

Born Thierry Andre Roger in Switzerland, Roger grew up in Germany and then in France, living in Paris, Nice and Cannes. Initially interested in culinary arts or nursing, Roger ultimately enrolled in fashion school. He studied fashion and art at a school in Tours, France, and then worked for the women’s clothing firm Guy Laroche.

Roger relocated in 1990 from Europe to Chicago, where he began working as a couture designer.

“I met him in October 1990, and he was doing custom silk scarves and pillows for boutiques on the North Shore,” Vrooman said. “He also designed a custom line of silk shirts — button-down shirts with super-intricate, embroidered pearls and different metals. He did a lot of experimenting at that time. He was doing a lot of stuff, and then he started his first line, Collection Privee.”

Among Thierry’s designs were hand-dyed silk scarves that could be bought as-is or ordered in more than 40 colors. He sold his Collection Privee line at Eva Pazola’s River North shop, among other locations.

“Very quickly, we started collaborating and Thierry would design beautiful hand-painted silk scarves to complement my collections,” Pazola said. “I remember attending his first amazing fashion show in Chicago. His designs were exquisite. He was so very talented, and we worked together for many years.”

Roger founded another brand, Thierry Roger Couturier, and he started designing all manner of custom women’s apparel. He opened a Roscoe Village boutique with the name of his first line, Collection Privee, in 2003. The store sold handbags, jewelry and custom fashions.

Roger later shifted to making custom designs out of his home studio.

“For many years, he did a lot of fabulous custom couture for different women in the city. It was always about classic French with a twist,” Thompson said. “He made all the patterns — anything done with sewing, he did — and then he had a tailor who did all the machine sewing for the most part. But needle and thread was Thierry — he liked to work with very rich fashions.”

Michelle Bibergal was a friend, client and former president of the Chicago History Museum’s Costume Council, which helps museum leaders document and interpret the history and art of fashion. She called Roger “a true artist and designer.”

“For many clients, he would prepare drawings with great detail for each garment he designed, along with many fittings,” Bibergal said. “He knew techniques on how to properly line and alter garments to fit each person’s figure so they looked their best — something that is not done much anymore.”

During the COVID-19 pandemic, Roger was battling cancer. Even so, he designed and delivered hundreds of face masks as a way to focus on helping others during his cancer treatment, Vrooman said. His estate also is donating sewing items and nearly $1 million worth of fine fabrics, embellishments and accouterments to Columbia College Chicago’s fashion studies program.

“He was a philanthropist at heart,” Vrooman said. “It was important to him to just care about other people.”

Roger also was a member of the Chicago History Museum’s Costume Council.

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“Thierry was a gregarious and passionate member of the Costume Council. His personal style, grace and commitment to the mission of the Chicago History Museum helped us present numerous exhibitions, such as ‘Silverscreen to Mainstream’ and ‘Treasured Ten,’” said Michael Anderson, the museum’s vice president of external engagement and development. “He always had great ideas and impeccable taste.”

Maggie Morgan, current president of the Costume Council, said his “passion and enthusiasm for the support of the collection was ever present in his creative ideas and extensive knowledge of fashion history.”

Outside work, Roger enjoyed celebrating Bastille Day, cooking for others and dining out, Vrooman said.

Roger is survived by his husband, Steven Martin-Roger.

Services were held.

Bob Goldsborough is a freelance reporter.

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